Another week has gone by and we have been travelling even further south. We have arrived at Rothera, which is the main base for the British Antarctic Survey (BAS). It sits at the bottom edge of Adelaide Island and was the first bit of solid ground many of the ships company had seen since leaving the Falklands. In order to get here, we had to pass through the spectacular Lemaire Channel. It is a narrow gap between 1000m mountains either side and needs very careful navigation to get through safely. The Monkey deck at the front of the ship was full of photographers wanting to take in the amazing scenery.
Endurance passing through the Lemaire Channel
We were given a very warm welcome by the base commander at Rothera, and the sailors set off for a stroll. There are still about 100 people on the base, many having returned from months in the ice to the warmth and shelter. There are many Crabeater and Weddell seals scattered around the ship sleeping on the icebergs, oblivious to their new neighbour.
Crabeater seal stretching in the sun with Endurance in the background
We are back to Rothera later in the month for our version of the winter Olympics, and the troops are training hard to try and beat the team from BAS.
Captain Tarrant in a shopping frenzy
Posing in front of the Palmer Station sign with Flight Commander, Lt Cdr Colin Simpson
I have been out and about as well, visiting our friends who work in Antarctica with us, but stay here all year round. First stop was the American base Palmer. We had a fascinating tour of their labs and I was fascinated to have a talk on sea cucumbers that live only in Antarctica. After months away from home, it was great to find that they have an amazingly stocked shop selling everything from postcards to baseball caps. We all spent our money on gifts to send home and they may arrive back before we do. Post from Antarctica is always a problem as there just aren’t post boxes on every corner like at home. Any letters or cards have to be taken to the mainland by boat or plane before being flown all the way home.
Surg Lt Cdr Mathew Turner, Lt Lou Brimacombe and LAPHOT Kelly Whybrow find a new friend
Captain Tarrant signs the visitor's book at Verdansky Base
Next stop was Verdamsky base that is run by a team from The Ukraine. The base is very famous and houses the piece of equipment that was used to discover the hole in the ozone layer that is so important in keeping the suns rays from harming us. There is a small museum about it, and our friends also put on a show to entertain us. I took a few of the troublemakers from the ship to keep them out of mischief. I mentioned Lt Lou Brimacombe who keeps me in order, and our doctor, Surg Lt Cdr Matthew Turner in my last blog, and I also took our talented ships photographer LAPHOT Kelly Whybrow. They often describe themselves as being like a transformer. If they combine their force, I am powerless to defend myself. They made me have my haircut last week!
Laundryman Timmy Cheng enjoying the view from the Monkey Deck
We celebrated Chinese New year in style with Timmy, our Laundry man, by having a dinner in the wardroom. We are now in the year of the Rat and those on board who are rats are in for a bumper year. I was happy and slightly intrigued to find out I am an Ox!
Capt Tarrant with LPT Johnny Platt on the runway at Rothera, passing his fitness test
This week was fitness test time! Each year everyone in the Navy has to prove that they are fit enough to do their job. Even the Captain does not escape the eagle eye of LPT Johnny Platt who is on board to keep us all exercising. The fitness test is normally done back in the UK, but I was lucky enough to do mine on the runway at Rothera. I am sure there must be a record for the most southerly one, and it was good to have Johnny to spur me on. I passed by the way for all your doubters!
Anchor with new friend, Wally the Weddell seal
Anchor with new friend, Logistician Dawn Wilson
Anchor has had a very busy week. He has been helping out all over the ship, getting stuck in and doing what all good Able Sea Bears do, working hard and making everyone happy. As a reward, one of our logisticians, Dawn Wilson took him out to meet some of the locals. They were very friendly and I think they may have exchanged a few recipes for fish, as all bears like fish and Weddel seals live on nothing but.
The Survey Team at Rothera led by Lt Cdr Colin Thompson and CPO Dave Sharp
Whilst we are at sea, we have left some of our sailors behind at Rothera. They are one of the surveying teams led by Lt Stuart Long. They are using our small survey boats to look at the bottom of the sea all around the harbour so that the charts we use to safely navigate in can be improved. Its vital work and they are a credit to the ship in how hard they work. I hope they don’t get too cold in their sleeping bags!
Humpback whale breaching
Right, duty calls, and I need to go and check that everything is going smoothly on the bridge. It always does, but it is my favourite place to sit and watch the world go by. It’s a pretty amazing world at that, and we have been treated to a very acrobatic display by a Humpback whale who leapt out of the water making a massive splash. There are many theories as to why they do this, perhaps getting rid of parasites, or barnacles, but I believe the one that says they do it because its fun! A whale version of diving into the swimming pool.
The next time I write, we will be as far south as we can go this season, and it’s very exciting to go where few other people have ever been.
Tight lines
Capt Bob.