A short 4 days after leaving the Falklands, HMS Endurance reached South Georgia. The first view for approximately a third of the Ships Company was breathtaking. Snow capped mountains against a sky patchworked with cloud and brilliant blue, greeted the ship as she sailed into Cumberland bay and up to Grtyviken itself. One of 4 deserted whaling stations (Leith, Stromness, and Husvik being the other 3) on South Georgia, Grytviken is also the site of Sir Ernest Shackletons grave, and is home to a couple who having sailed around the Southern ocean, settled there in the early 1990s and are the sole permanent inhabitants. It is also currently populated by approximately 40 Morrisons employees who are in the process of pulling down the whaling station and making safe the asbestos therein. At King Edward Point (KEP), the site of the deepwater jetty and approximately 1 km from Grytviken itself is the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) station, currently occupied by about 10 BAS personnel.
As we approached Grytviken the survey motor boats (SMBs) were launched so that the surveying work could begin, some slightly bumpy seas meaning that this took longer than anticipated and that we arrived alongside finally at approximately 2030. In the gathering dusk the ships company set about unloading the BAS stores we had transferred from the UK, including craning out the forklift truck we had stored in the forward hold from the Falkland Islands, to be used in the dismantling of the whaling station.

Moving the forklift truck
As this was not finished until 2200 leave was not granted that night. The next morning leave was granted for a short 2 hours to enable those of us who had not visited Grytviken before to get ashore and visit the whaling museum run by the aforementioned couple, visit the small church at the back of the town, and walk around to Shackletons grave. The station itself is fenced off and out of bounds as the demolition work progresses. Although short, it was a welcome stretch of the legs and an opportunity for many to see their first seals and penguins up close. The beach from KEP to Grytviken is littered with large placid elephant seals
, and a few much smaller and more aggressive fur seals.
Elephant seal DSM at BAS station KEP
Some king penguins were also seen, although the short time unfortunately prevented us from walking the short walk around to the penguin colony. All back on board by 1100, the ship sailed at 1230, having had a very short break.
Back at sea again we disembarked another SMB and set to surveying Possession Bay. HMS Endurances tasking over the next couple of years is one by one to survey the bays and inlets that cruise ships visiting South Georgia will use. The SMBs are needed to survey the bays, as they are too shallow for Endurance to safely survey herself. The ship will survey part of the coastline that will form a circular safe survey route for vessels around the island.
The BSES party was disembarked by sea boat, into Husvik, and their stores transferred by helo.
 BSES Group
From Husvik, some of party will set off to follow Shackletons route over South Georgia, whilst other members of the group survey the area for reindeer remains in an attempt to distinguish how different the two herds on South Georgia are. Introduced in the 18th century by the whalers as a source of meat, the two herds have remained separated by glaciers ever since. After this the ship made tracks up the coast to the north west of the island to commence her surveying amongst a variety of sizes of icebergs .
Ariel view of South Georgia
Tuesday (2nd Dec) saw the first of many crew changes of the SMBs, via helicopter.
Wednesday saw the first of the seal counters along with BAS scientist, Dirk Briggs , landed ashore in Husvik, for a trial of the seal counting technique. Some of the BSES group had volunteered to assist and a party of 7 set off along the beach for some high ground vantage point from which to photograph the beach. The fur seals are coming ashore now as their breeding season to first of all give birth, and then mate again.
 Male Fur Seal
As such the bull seals are tending to be territorial and aggressive, and confrontation between counters and seals are to be avoided. Generally a long pole is sufficient to stop any interaction. A successful day was had by all and both the flights to and from the beach provided a spectacular opportunity to see South Georgia from the air. The next day saw the first seal count combined with vertical photography, as well as an opportunity for the CO and few others to overfly some of the areas to be surveyed, and to land on South Georgia in areas unlikely ever to have been trodden by human feet before.
Poorer weather (particularly visibility) for the rest of the week meant that the seal counting was put on hold. The SMB and ship surveying has gone well, with daily SMB crew changes, by sea boat or helo, dependant on the vicinity of the ship to Possession Bay, the site of the SMB survey. We are currently on target for completion of our Work Period 1 tasking as anticipated.
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