HMS Endurance Kayak Team Blog

22 February
Following a frustrating day bunkered down due to the blizzard and storm (a day when we all stayed in our sleeping bags, read, slept or drank hot tea); we rose to sunshine, calm seas and no wind. A great surprise and a real bonus as this meant we would be able to sort out and get into wet gear, repack boats and generally sort out our lives. Our campsite looked like a bomb site!! Gear and bodies all over the place.

To take full advantage of the day, we rose a little later than normal to get the warmth of the sun and took three hours to get ourselves together. Plan for the day – to get back to base camp, some ten miles further on, refuel, replenish battery power and then, time permitting; paddle on to Cape Lachman at the northerly tip of James Ross Island.

How different a day! The day’s paddle was calm and bright. No need of head-overs and balaclavas; just plenty of sunscreen and fluid.

Paddling back towards base camp we cruise along Herbert Sound. Initially ice free, we soon entered an area of icebergs - an iceberg graveyard - with all manner of shapes and sizes. Paddling through brash ice and occasional open water we made our way through serene icebergs, big and small, tall and short, reflecting in the bright light of the day. Clearing the ice, we strike out for base across open water, all still caught out by the clarity of the air. In such conditions distances are always further than they seem. Nevertheless after the ten or so planned miles we arrived at base, all ready for a good hot lunch and a nice long break.

Sunning ourselves and reflecting on the day we debated whether or not to continue. Conditions are great, but the draw of base camp was very tempting. Eventually we make the decision to carry on to Cape Lachman. Having had a good break we eventually left at 4.30 with the idea that we would paddle for about three hours. Again, the paddling was easy going with light winds.

Paddling into the evening, with the sun going down and loosing its warmth; we began to feel the chill, firstly on our hands and then later as we rounded the point we began to feel the cold throughout.

Paddling towards the Cape, we could again experience the cliff line of west Vega with its imposing 1500 feet cliffs; although these were some distance away. More excitingly we caught tantalizing views of the Antarctic Peninsula, hopefully our ultimate destination.

Paddling well and together, and although we were tired, it was good to see that everyone was paddling well and enjoying a pleasant evening’s paddle.

As the peninsula we were paddling along protected our final view of the Graham Land and the Detroit Plateau; it is not surprising that none of us were ready for the awesome view we were to experience once we rounded the Cape. Fantastic breathtaking views across Prince Gustav Channel over to the snow fields and mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula…a truly awesome sight as the sun was shining its last.

The Cape provided for us a fantastic campsite – the best so far. Poised between high cliffs and accessed via beached ice; we shared our site with a few fur seals, seagulls and skuas. A cold but stunning amphitheatre of nature. Only in `Middle Earth’ could one imagine such a breathtaking site!

The loss of the sun hastened our camp prep and hot food and it was not long before we were wrapped up in our sleeping bags contemplating what tomorrow could possible bring.

23 February
What a day! Again, this place never ceases to amaze us; through its beauty and ability to turn up the unexpected.

The day started early, getting up at 0530 and getting on the water at 0730. It was hard going at the start with a few aches and pains creeping in. The cold temperature did not help and it was not until we reached Red Island after about 4 and half hours paddling that we finally started to feel comfortable.

Red Island was amazing with sheer cliffs on all sides and a statuesque rock formation on its western side called `The Monument’. We stopped for a break and a quick look ahead at the ice as its concentration had been increasing since we left Cape Lachman. The path ahead looked good; so we carried on to the peninsula where we planned to have lunch.

As we paddled, the going became increasingly tough through the ice with lots of detours to find the easiest leads through. By the time lunch was due we had not reached the peninsula so we decided to stop and have lunch on an iceberg. After some biscuits brown (always a delight as any military or ex military person could tell you) and some noodles we had a quick photo shoot and were on our way.

No sooner had we started than we ground to a holt as we were penned in by ice. Three of us were faced with a long wait to allow the ice to free us; so we decided to get out of our kayaks and drag them over the adjacent iceberg. This involved a few of the other guys assisting from the iceberg and some nifty footwork to get up from the kayak to the iceberg. We all managed it safely; even when the last man, Mike, had the ice he was standing on disappear from beneath him.

We carried on paddling and finally made the peninsula on a beautiful rocky outcrop. We originally only stopped to view the ice conditions ahead but after a short while the consensus was that this was such a beautiful spot and as time getting on, we should stay for the night. This was definitely the right decision because although we were 5 miles short of our target destination, the scenery we had discovered was stunning. We were literally surrounded by ice in all directions and sharing our campsite with some resident fur seals. To top this off; as the sun was setting and as I’m writing this blog, we were visited by some Minke whales which moved majestically from the surface to the depths of the Prince Gustav Channel with ease and grace.

What a spectacular day! And so completely different from all of our previous days… Where we are is never the same twice. Only a day and a half left now until we return to the ship. We had best make the most of it. I will dream of my loved ones tonight and long for the day I return to them. But for now; I’m content in my cold paradise.

24 February
This has been a long tiring day. I was up at 05:30 to get on the water for 07:30. It is very hard in the morning to get started sometimes because it is so warm in your sleeping bag and really cold outside. The thought of having to get into a cold damp dry bag does not help matters! But I know if I don’t make a move everybody else will lay in and it will delay our start…

The weather has been dull dry and cold with fog rolling in from the east so the closely awaited sunrise was a disappointment. But the ground was clear of snow which was good news.

We eventually got on the water for 08:30 and head for Egg Island for morning tea. However we didn’t make it because of the pack ice. We changed our plan and decided to head for Vortex Island instead which was to the south. The going was tough and at 11:15 we decided to stop for early lunch. We had covered only 3.6 nautical miles which was disappointing. On a number of occasions we had to get our kayaks out the water and drag them. It was quite a challenge - but very rewarding at the same time. Without teamwork our progress would have been very much slower.

However everybody is upbeat. The sun has been beating down on us relentlessly and we’ve all slapped on sun lotion in abundance. I took the opportunity to charge my laptop with BV’s two solar panels in series. A naval Lynx from ENDURANCE visited us and took some aerial video which should look pretty spectacular. We took the opportunity to ask 435 the quickest route though the pack ice and their response was that we should be prepared to carry our kayaks further…. however south east was the shortest route. We left the iceberg 12:30 and it took us a further two hours to get through the tightly packed ice.

During the morning paddle, Mark Townsend’s beloved kayak sustained a 50 mm crack and was taking in water in the bow section so we had to do an emergency repair before getting on the water which delayed our departure.

Throughout the day many of the team had encounters with Minke whales and large playful Weddell seals. These occasions were very special and we will all cherish the memories for a very long time.

We now have a further 13 nautical miles to base camp at Martha’s Cove. It was the longest and most boring 13 mile ever! Brisk winds were coming in from the west and hitting our starboard aft quarter which made the paddle a little more difficult even with our skegs down.

The final group arrived at 19:00. We were all very tired from being on the water for 10 hour. It is 21:30 and I must send this blog and the one from yesterday and get to bed… Buenas noches!!!

Tried to send blog but the battery on the BGAN C3 dish is completely dead which is very disappointing because I have been sitting with it next to my chest to warm up…

Will try to charge it in the morning and send it then.